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The Regeneration Report

The Iris

Botanical intelligence

The Iris

Summary

    Recognizable by its flowers in shades of purple, blue, white, or yellow, the iris has been a staple of botany, perfumery, and pharmacopoeias for centuries.heritage

    But at Laboratoires Botanique Avancée, it's mainly its biology that interests us.

    Beneath the soil's surface, its rhizome allows it to store reserves and survive the seasons before producing new shoots. This ability to conserve its resources and adapt to its environment makes it a particularly interesting plant for botanical research applied to cosmetics.

    At LBA, iris plant cells are incorporated into our NEO-REGEN® complex, which was developed to support the skin’s natural regeneration processes.

    The iris: a plant that draws its strength from its rhizome

    Botanical name: Iris germanica – Iris pallida
    Family: Iridaceae
    Storage organ: Rhizome
    Flowering season: April through June, depending on the species

    Unlike plants that grow from a bulb, the iris has a rhizome, an underground stem that grows horizontally beneath the soil's surface.

    This rhizome plays a vital role in the plant's life cycle. It stores reserves that enable the plant to survive less favorable periods and produce new shoots when conditions become favorable again.

    This ability to store, preserve, and mobilize its resources over time is one of the biological characteristics of the iris that is of interest to researchers.

    Why is the iris rhizome so unique?

    The uniqueness of the iris rhizome goes beyond its role as a storage organ.

    After harvesting, certain species—particularly those used in perfumery—require a long period of drying and maturation. During this period, which can last several years, their composition changes, leading in particular to the formationof irones, the molecules responsible for the characteristic scent profile of iris.

    It is this process that has made it one of the most sought-after raw materials in perfumery.

    But beyond its aromatic appeal, the iris also contains various plant compounds that are being studied for their biological properties, including polyphenols, isoflavones, and other phenolic compounds.

    Which compounds in the iris are studied in cosmetics?

    Like many plants, the iris naturally produces various molecules that contribute to its development and defense mechanisms.

    The families of compounds studied in various species of iris include, in particular:

    • polyphenols;
    • isoflavones;
    • various phenolic compounds;
    • certain plant-derived triterpenes.

    These molecules primarily serve a function for the plant itself. They play a role in the plant’s interactions with its environment and in some of its natural defense mechanisms.

    It is the study of these mechanisms and the associated molecules that subsequently enables cosmetic research to identify compounds of potential interest for the skin.

    Understanding what the plant develops on its own is thus the starting point for LBA’s botanical research.

    From the Iris to Cosmeticactive ingredients

    The fact that an ingredient is plant-based is not enough to determine its effectiveness.

    Once a plant or molecule of interest has been identified, several steps are required to move from the plant to thecosmeticactive ingredients : characterization, extraction, or cell culture—depending on the desiredactive ingredients —stability testing, determination of its concentration, and incorporation into a formulation.

    This approach goes beyond the mere concept of a natural ingredient to focus on how a botanical active ingredients t is sourced, formulated, and incorporated into a skincare product.

    That is the very essence of Advanced Botany: building on our knowledge of plants to develop active ingredients that can be incorporated into formulations designed for the skin.

    Iris plant cells at the heart of NEO-REGEN®

    At Laboratoires Botanique Avancée, the iris holds a special place because it is a key ingredient in our NEO-REGEN® technology .

    This technology combines iris plant cells withEau de Baulieu, which is at the heart of our approach to skin regeneration.

    NEO-REGEN® is incorporated into our regenerative formulas to support the skin’s natural processes and help maintain its quality over time.

    This technology is at the heart of, among other things, Regenerative serum in cream and Regenerative melt-in cream, in formulas designed to work in harmony with the skin’s natural functions.

    Iris and skin longevity : What's the connection?

    Skin “longevity ” is not about preventing the skin from aging. It aims to preserve the skin’s natural abilities—to regenerate, maintain its barrier function, protect itself, and adapt—for as long as possible.

    The iris reflects this approach through its own biology. Its rhizome allows it to build up reserves, survive the seasons, and produce new shoots.

    This is not a matter of directly applying the mechanisms of the plant to those of the skin. The iris is primarily a model organism whose biological characteristics and certain compounds are of interest to cosmetic research.

    This distinction is essential to the LBA approach: observing living organisms to understand their mechanisms, and then scientifically studying how some of these mechanisms can inform skin research.

    The iris at the Domaine de Baulieu

    In Domaine de Baulieu, botany is the starting point for our research.

    In the Laboratory Garden, plants can be observed in their natural environment as the seasons change and weather conditions vary. This observation informs a broader research effort focused on their adaptive mechanisms and the molecules they produce naturally.

    The iris is part of this approach, along with the other species studied by Laboratoires Botanique Avancée.

    From the garden to the laboratory, our approach remains the same: observe, understand, select, and formulate.

    The Iris: An Expression of Advanced Botany

    The iris alone embodies part of Laboratoires Botanique Avancée’s vision.

    We do not select a plant solely based on its " heritage " or its natural origin. We seek to understand its biology, identify what makes it interesting, and determine how this knowledge can be applied to develop sophisticated formulations.

    With its reserve and adaptive mechanisms and the diversity of its plant compounds, the iris is thus much more than just a source of botanical inspiration.

    It plays a direct role in our research and, through the plant cells incorporated into NEO-REGEN®, in our approach to skin regeneration and re longevity .

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